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thewhitebook's
view and highlights from Rosemount Australian Fashion Week (RAFW)
Spring Summer 2009/10 collection shows.
Photography reproduced from
2threads & Vogue.
Camilla
and Marc
A collection inspired by "sex, strength and skin".... Camilla
and Marc certainly delivered in their opening RAFW show. Shoulders
were powerful (think Balmain, which has been everywhere else during
the week), dresses were body conscious (think Léger which was
also everywhere during the week) with tough gold zippers all accessorised
with leopard print shoe boots. Front row included Lara Bingle and
Paul Keating. Emma Balfour closed the show (as she did with the off-schedule
Friedrich Gray show on Sunday night). A strong collection but a little
too influenced by Balmain and the Paris shows in general.
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Ginger
& Smart
An injection of graphic prints, including rainbows, and colour saw
the Ginger & Smart show soar. Titled "Skydancer" and
inspired by "the uplifting nature of the kite", this was
a smart (pun intended) collection from the sister duo which saw models
walk down the runway in corset dresses, armour vests, draped jumpsuits,
billowy zippered tops, soft jackets and sleek cigarette trousers.
One of the few original collections during RAFW. Spare a thought for
the first stack of the week with one of the models coming off her
vertiginous toothpick heels.
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Wayne
Cooper
An hour late and it was back to the 80s (a theme consistent with most
of the week) and it was all about disco. The show included a huge
colour palette, bubble hems, jumpsuits, super skinny pants and batwing
dresses. Classic rock and roll show man Cooper. Front row sat the
ex wife and current girlfriend.
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Nicola
Finetti
Lots of ruffles, feathers, paneling and colour. The woman is definitely
back with more body con dresses and strong shoulders. The finale included
five long gowns, the first white and very wedding worthy for the modern
bride. Soundtrack was great with some remixed M.I.A. Jennifer Hawkins
sat front row with a slew of starlets. |
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Dion
Lee
The most highly anticipated show of the week was held in a Kings Cross
car park. This was significant since Dion Lee's collection was inspired
by sculptures of crushed car pieces by US artist John Chamberlain. An
absolutely stellar debut solo show from the 23 year old who does all
his pattern-making himself. Lee graduated from Sydney Institute of Technology
in 2007 but displayed a maturity well beyond his years with carefully
structured and sculptured jackets, tops and dresses. Currently only
stocked in two stores Australia wide, expect to see and hear a lot more
from Dion Lee. With another two more days of RAFW to go, almost everyone
you speak to has already concluded that this is their favourite show. |
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Zimmermann
Despite the blackout halting proceedings for a short time, Zimmermann
went on to show a coveted collection. This is one brand that continues
to capitalise on its Aussie summer, resort style feel with bright and
bold swimwear and floral prints. Sleeveless jackets, loose pants and
jumpsuits are what this summer will be made of and we like it. |
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Saint
Augustine Academy
The stand out from the Ready To Wear Men's and Women's Group show was
without a doubt Saint Augustine Academy doing classic high school geek
chic the way it should be done. Lots of clean and lean suits, some with
a Thom Browne feel with the ankles exposed and bow ties. Loved the tuxedo
jacket with shorts. Colour palette extended mainly to black, white,
cream and grey. Photo credit: Victoria Rika-Heke |
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Illionaire
Emma Balfour kicked things off again, this time in a black and white
graphic print swimsuit (a little similar to Zimmermann no?). The look
and feel was again very 80s with frills, fingerless gloves and a gold
jumpsuit. The finale was fab with gold confetti showering down on the
fashion pack. |
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Ant!podium
Real people as models including transvestites. Why?
“Because they have brains. It’s an interesting concept for
fashion” was the response from designer Geoffrey J. Finch. Despite
the huge attention the models received, the clothes did get a look in
too. Nothing too groundbreaking but included lots of prints, denim,
sheer tops and pants and sleeveless dresses. There was even jewellery
fashioned from tampons. This was one show that had it all. |
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Aurelio
Costarella
A show with no seats in The Cargo Theatre. We all stood, every one of
us. Harper's Bazaar crew and Grazia and Marie Claire editors were side
by side. Terry Biviano's friend was a true gentleman letting me stand
in front of him so I could see. Aching feet and craning necks watched
12 sublime "Morphosis" goddess dresses and gowns glide slowly
down the runway. Models then remained on the floor creating a live installation
of the collection. Second time we saw the vibrant tangerine orange,
first time was at Nicola Finetti on Monday night. Costarella's nomadic
yet ethereal collection was one of a few clear favourites. There are
actually 50 styles in total so looking forward to seeing the rest. |
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Dhini
& Gail Sorronda
A combined show, no doubt to save some bucks, commenced
with a lone drummer girl heralding the start of Dhini's "New World
Order" featuring 16 marching band inspired looks in navy, pale
blue, white, grey, mustard and black. The Balmain shoulder made yet
another appearance on the jackets. Also lots of fluidity and draping
in the tops and dresses. Gail Sorronda came next with "Invasive
Exotics" which was in her signature style, black and white. It
combined sheer dresses, paneling, draping and bubble skirts with detailing
such as feathers, tassels and gold zippers. Ripped leggings were reminiscent
of Rodarte. A little black widow and corpse bride mixed with French
maid. |
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Jayson
Brunsdon
Back to classic, ladylike elegance for Jayson Brunsdon
who returned graciously to the catwalk while fighting cancer. Showing
in salon style, the show was inspired by an dedicated to his mother
Dorothy who sat front row with his father. This was true Jayson Brunsdon
modern glamour with an old world feel. Beautiful halter tops,soft trenches,
silk taffeta gowns, high waisted 40s shorts with shirts all with lots
of tied bows. Colours were mainly white, copper and brown with some
shades of pastel green and pink. |
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Kirrily
Johnston
Foraying into menswear for the first time, Kirrily Johnston
showed a lot of her usual fluid draping on both men and women. Gold
and tangerine were highlights. Long and short dresses, singlets, long
flowy jackets. Beautiful jewellery pieces. Felt a bit nomadic like last
year's show. |
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Willow
A decadent installation of models perched in trees like
birds. "Creatures" was shown at Carthona House in Darling
Point and was followed by a sumptuous dinner for 80 guests. Black and
gold tops, feathers, prints, ruffles, sequins, draping, sheer panels
and tangerine again. |
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Romance
Was Born
Wow, where do you start with a label like Romance Was
Born.... the Australian equivalent of John Galliano?! Showing offsite
at the Sydney Theatre Company themed as Atlantis in all its underwater
glory, even the shoes were customised
by hand and adorned with shells, you didn't know quite to expect.
But Luke Sales and Anna Plunkett delivered a creative, innovative and
refreshing collection which included some wearable (ivory blouses, lace
trousers, sleeveless dresses) and moved progressively to some not so
wearable (knitted octopus head piece case in point) items. Applauded
for their originality, Cate Blanchett recently said Romance was one
of her favourite labels. |
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Fashion
Design Studio TAFE NSW
A mixed bag starting with frills, cut-out panels, asymmetrical
hems in mainly blacks and greys from Soeli Pedrozo to leather, sequins,
prints, cropped jackets and strapless dresses from Rachel
Sherwood's then Seema Pun's high voltage pinks, mustards and
greys in dresses, slim pants, vests and short skirts and finally Christian
Lines' menswear with jersey t-shirts, tights, funnel necks, hoods,
poo-catcher pants, jackets and et look macs. Seema Pun was a
stand-out especially for her great use of colour which was a rare feature
in these Spring Summer collections. |
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Gary
Bigeni
Sticking to his trademark basic pieces, Gary Bigeni's
collection was a mix of jackets, long sleeve dresses, over-sized dresses,
high waisted slim pants, twisted t-shirts and singlets and jumpers in
jersey, spandex, merino wool, cotton and silk and mainly all black except
for a some small injections of aqua, lilac and grey. Again lots of fluidity
and draping so nothing too exciting or new but all very wearable and
transeasonal. Opening and closing the show was Myf Shepherd. |
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Sass
& Bide
A fashion week show with no fashion. Well when you're
Sass & Bide, you can do whatever you want, especially when it is
your 10th anniversary. With not so sponsor friendly French bubbly flowing
in an Alexandria warehouse, the fashion pack was treated to an exhibition
of artwork by ten of Sarah-Jane Clarke and Heidi Middleton's celebrity
chums (amongst them Kate Moss and Mischa Barton) around the theme "Shine".
The artwork will be auctioned to raise funds for the Shine Collective
which was created by the pair in partnership with Barnardo’s which
helps physically and mentally abused children in Australia and the UK.
Photo credit: Getty Images. |
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Magdalena
Velevska
Showing soft drapey pieces in orange, plum, grey and blue with a burnt
orange and some floral prints, this was a refined collection from newcomer
Magdalena Velevska
who previously designed for Lisa Ho and Third Millennium. The strong
shoulder was back as was the 40s silhouette but Velevska worked this
better than most during the week. |
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The
Cassette Society
Models featured crystal eyebrows and slick back hair and sci-fi long
plaits all came from inspiration of erotic futurism, youthful revolt
and the femme fatal in The Cassette Society's "That Heroine's Electric"
show. |
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Fernando
Frisoni
Debuting at RAFW last year under the now defunct FrisoniFinetti label
(designed in collaboration with Nicola Finetti), Fernando Frisoni is
now going it alone and showed his first women's capsule collection.
The show was opened by a child. Simple black, white and beige pieces
which included dresses, shorts, vests and leggings. |
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